OKINAWA
The Army Ladies Dragon Boat Team wins by a razor-thin margin against the Navy Ladies Dragon Boat Team at the Dragon Boat race in Nahashin Port, Okinawa.

The Army Ladies Dragon Boat Team wins by a razor-thin margin against the Navy Ladies Dragon Boat Team at the Dragon Boat race in Nahashin Port, Okinawa, on May 5, 2024. (Henry Gundacker, U.S. Army, 10th Support Group)

A surge of adrenaline, the rhythmic clash of oars, and the deafening roar of the crowd are the hallmarks of the Okinawan Dragon Boat Races. In the heart of Okinawa’s pristine waters, where the culture and history of the island converge, the dragon boat races stand as a testament to the spirit of camaraderie and tradition. The boats glide through the water, propelled by teams whose determination is matched only by the rhythm of the drum guiding their strokes. 

“…all with the same goal of no kidding putting everything we’ve got and leaving it in the water,” US Navy Dragon Boat Coach Fealofani Peau tells us, with his passion and dedication evident. 

The Naha Hari, one of the most anticipated races, fills the harbor with an infectious energy that captivates both participants and spectators alike. Each year, thousands flock to the island to witness this breathtaking spectacle of tradition, skill, and raw competitive spirit, where rivalries are forged, friendships are strengthened, and the love for the sport transcends borders.

A Tradition Rooted in History

With origins dating back more than 600 years, these races, known locally as “hari,” embody Okinawa’s nautical heritage. It’s not just a race, but a prayer for prosperity and safety for fishermen. The Naha Hari is the island’s biggest annual dragon boat race, held every year on Golden Week, attracting over 150,000 spectators. The boats themselves, adorned with dragon heads and tails, are a magnificent sight. Each team embodies the traditions of their respective branches and represents the island’s diverse cultures.

The US Army Ladies Dragon Boat Team member Adrianne Dyer is enthusiastic about these races. “It’s fun to be part of a cultural experience,” she shares. “We all know what it’s like to do that together.” 

The Pulse of the Race

These boats, each weighing up to three tons, require immense power to move. Peau explains that the American teams, including his own, tend to be heavier than their local counterparts. “Our right side is no kidding 2000lbs and left side is 2000lbs,” Peau says, emphasizing the additional weight his team must overcome. The harmony and unity are crucial, as every stroke of the oar can mean the difference between winning and losing.

SPC Sean Gillett, of the US Army Dragon Boat team, recalls, “As soon as you cross that finish line you’re done,” showing the grueling demands of the race. He elaborates on the physical toll it takes, “My body started to cramp up… you just kind of stopped thinking about it and keep rowing.”

Ryan Shapiro, a former US Army officer and member of the US Army Dragon Boat team, stresses the importance of team synchronization, “You have to build a level of endurance to where your body can continue to exert energy throughout the entire race.”

The US Army Black Knights gather around to touch a buoy with “Go Army, Beat Navy” written on it.

The US Army Black Knights gather around to touch a buoy with “Go Army, Beat Navy” written on it. This lucky charm didn’t bring them victory, but it fills them with pride and solidarity in their performance at the Dragon Boat race in Nahashin Port, Okinawa, on May 5, 2024. (Henry Gundacker, U.S. Army, 10th Support Group)

The Army Ladies Dragon Boat Team takes a group picture, beaming with pride and joy after their win at the Dragon Boat race in Nahashin Port, Okinawa.

The Army Ladies Dragon Boat Team takes a group picture, beaming with pride and joy after their win at the Dragon Boat race in Nahashin Port, Okinawa, on May 5, 2024. (Henry Gundacker, U.S. Army, 10th Support Group)

Yuuki Dugas-Bird of the Army’s Dragon Boat team points at the time board, proudly showing their 0.17-second victory over the Navy Ladies Dragon Boat team.

Yuuki Dugas-Bird of the Army’s Dragon Boat team points at the time board, proudly showing their 0.17-second victory over the Navy Ladies Dragon Boat team. The team also beat last year’s score by almost a minute at the Dragon Boat race in Nahashin Port, Okinawa, on May 5, 2024. (Henry Gundacker, U.S. Army, 10th Support Group)

Rivalry and Resilience

The age-old rivalry between branches fuels the competitive spirit. Each branch strives to win the race, or at least beat their closest rival. “Our biggest goal every year is to beat Navy,” Shapiro reveals. Despite this rivalry, the spirit remains respectful and promotes camaraderie. “Our rivalry fuels growth and determination, but in the end, we never forget that US Army and Navy are on the same team.”

In keeping with tradition, the winning team of the Army and Navy men’s race receives the paddle from the losing team. “2019 we lost our race to the Army and had to walk that paddle over and present it to them, which is very humbling,” Peau reflects on the longstanding tradition. However, he highlights the significance of reclaiming the paddle for two consecutive years, saying, “It was very close… we weren’t up at O Dark thirty, three times a week to waste our time.”

Moments of Triumph and Perseverance

Triumph and perseverance are two sides of the same coin in the dragon boat races. The electric atmosphere on race day is filled with anticipation, where every team knows that one second could make all the difference.

The Army and Navy Ladies Dragon Boat Teams went head-to-head in an intense race that pushed them to their limits. The teams launched with an explosive burst of energy, neck and neck for the majority of the race. Dyer recalls the thrill of their final stretch, “You could hear the crowd getting louder… you just start digging harder and harder.” The cheers from the shore amplified their determination, and every stroke became a testament to their training and teamwork.

On the other boat, Crystal Vergara, the US Navy assistant coach, had an added personal motivation, doing it for her father, who retired as a Navy chief. “I know my dad’s proud of me. He didn’t get to come but he was rooting for me from home,” she reflects. Vergara describes the razor-thin margin between victory and defeat. “We lost by 0.17,” she exclaims. Despite the narrow loss, she takes pride in the camaraderie the team had built. “I’m just proud of the ladies and what they have done.”

Dyer reflects on her race, recounting the achievement of their narrow victory over the Navy, “The relief that we were on the positive side of the blink of an eye was thrilling and humbling,” she reveals, while also holding great admiration and respect for all the competitors.

The emotion of these moments is tangible, and the stories from the races will continue to inspire for years to come.

Lessons Beyond the Waters

The races offer lessons beyond physical competition. Gillett believes, “Things can seem hard, but as long as you have a good team behind you, you can accomplish amazing feats.” Shapiro echoes this sentiment, highlighting that dragon boat racing, ““fortifies the skills that have already been ingrained through military service.”

Dyer appreciates the inclusivity of the sport, where all are welcome to participate, “Everyone can come in and try and get better.”

Looking Ahead

These races aren’t just a once-in-a-lifetime experience for participants; they ignite a passion that keeps people coming back. “I will continue to row and prepare for next May’s race,” Dyer emphasizes. Gillett encourages others to join, “Definitely start earlier than a month beforehand.”

Peau believes that dragon boat racing is a test of resilience and commitment: “Consistency, dedication, and effort.” For those who yearn for the rush of competition, the thrill of teamwork, and a sense of belonging to something much greater than themselves, there’s no better place to start than in the thundering waters of Okinawa.

The best stories from the Pacific, in your inbox

Sign up for our weekly newsletter of articles from Japan, Korea, Guam, and Okinawa with travel tips, restaurant reviews, recipes, community and event news, and more.

Sign Up Now