No matter where you go along Okinawa’s coast, you’re sure to get some amazing ocean views. Haneji Naikai, an inland sea between Motobu Peninsula and Yagaji Island, is considered one of Okinawa’s best.

This area with small islets dotting the water is often compared to Miyagi Prefecture’s Matsushima on the mainland.

I normally enjoy the view of the sea from above as I drive or cycle on Warumi Ohashi, a 315-meter bridge connecting the main island to Yagaji. The waters below always look enticing and refreshing view after a long drive or ride.

Seeking a new perspective and spots to enjoy Haneji Nakai’s exceptional views, my parents and I recently headed north.

RikaRika Warumi

Our first stop was at RikaRika Warumi, a roadside station sitting on a hill overlooking the inland sea.

We have already been there several times to use its bathroom or to take photos of the water from the bridge nearby. What we didn’t know, however, was that it has a terrace to enjoy a nice lunch with a great view.

Visitors can relax in the sitting area decked out with plenty of comfortable seating. We picked up lunch at Nakijin Burger and took front-row seats to the ocean views ahead of us. I had a double cheeseburger with a mango-orange juice on the side for 1,980 yen (approx. $14) and my parents enjoyed a double cheeseburger set with cola and a fish burger set with tea (1,480 yen).

Unfortunately, it was a little cloudy on that day, so it was not as vibrant, emerald, green water as my previous visits. Still, relaxing on the terrace with a tasty lunch hit the spot.

Beryl The Ride

Our next stop was FIFI Parlor, a café sitting on the south shore of the inland sea. More like a secret hideaway, the café’s kitchen is housed in a unique glass-walled capsule while a pavilion nearby allows visitors to enjoy the ocean while eating.

When we arrived, there were many customers enjoying the café’s pavilion and swing set. There was even a line for the swings, but we were there to hop on a boat ride around the inland sea.

The café runs “Beryl The Ride”, a 20-minute, high-speed boat ride through the emerald, green waters of Haneji Naikai for 3,000 yen per person (about $21). My mom waited for us under the café pavilion while my dad and I donned life jackets and got on the tiny orange boat.

As far as I could see, there were only very small waves on the surface. So, I was expecting a relaxing peaceful ride. However, once the boat departed and began picking speed, my expectation was completely betrayed.

Without any other boats or ships around, the waterway was wide open. The small boat was going at a tremendous speed, cutting through the wind. It occasionally bounced on the surface of the sea, grabbing air like a flying fish. 

For the first few minutes, I was glued to the seat and holding on for my dear life. I guess my father was doing the same. I was also grasping my GoPro tightly, hoping the little action camera would capture the tremendous speed.

As I settled in, I found myself liking the rocky and speedy ride. The boat slowed down occasionally, letting us take a good look at the shores, where I spotted remains of salt farms on Yagaji Island. Here, my father let me know that he rode a boat at the same spot more than 60 years ago when he was a freshman at a university in Okinawa. According to him, the landscape still looked very familiar.  

The highlight of the ride came when we went under Warumi Bridge; we were in the water that we saw from above just an hour ago. From below, the bridge loomed enormously over us. Near Unten Port, Beryl the Ride turned around to get us back to the café.

On our way back, the boat once again picked up speed, almost making it feel like a roller coaster ride. My father and I were trying hard to stay in our seats, while the nice wind blew across our faces. It was exhilarating!

Iris Flowers

Once on shore, our next stop was Ogimi Village’s Kijoka District, where okurareuka irises bloom in late spring. My family’s last visit was five years ago right before the pandemic hit. So much has changed since and we wanted to see how the okurareuka look now. It took us about 30 minutes to get to the iris field from FIFI Parlor. As we approached, we could see a carpet of purple flowers. With some buds here and there, they were yet in full bloom, but we were glad and relieved to see the flowers welcoming us as they did five years ago.

Michi no Eki Ogimi

This roadside station is our go-to place for a quick break when we travel north. It is often a part of our itinerary to eat soba noodles at Yamabaru Seaside Restaurant inside the station. On this day, unfortunately, the eatery was closed. However, Gajumaru-kan, a farmer’s marketplace by the restaurant, was open. We purchased goya (bitter melon) and cherry tomatoes for dinner and some nice prairie gentian flowers for a grand total of 1,009 yen, which put us in a happy mood on our way home.

RikaRika Warumi

• GPS Coordinates: N 26.66906, E127.99216

• Hours: 11 a.m. – 5 p.m. (Nakijin Burger), 9 a.m. – 6 p.m. (Amesoko Terrace)

• Website

FIFI Parlor

• GPS Coordinates: N 26.645723, E 127.992701

• Hours: 10 a.m. – 5 p.m.

• Instagram

Beryl The Ride

• Website

*Boat ride can be booked through here.

Okurareruka/Iris flower field in Kijoka

• GPS Coordinates: N 26.707846, E 128.149194

*The flowers usually bloom in April.

Michi no Eki Ogimi

• GPS Coordinates: N 26.660766, E 128.102316

• Hours: 9 a.m. – 6 p.m. (farmer’s market), 11 a.m. – 3 p.m. (restaurant, - 3:30 p.m. on Sat. Sun. and holidays. Closed on Thur.)

• Website