(Photo by Shoji Kudaka/Stripes Okinawa)
It was by accident that I went to Ukabijima in Okinawa. On a day in late June, I hit the road and drove down south. My destination of the day was Komakajima, an island only a 15-minute boat ride away from Chinen Peninsula on the eastern coast of Nanjo City. When I tried to buy a ticket at Chinen Marine Leisure Center, however, I was told that there would be no boat heading to the island.
A boat bound for Ukabijima, another small island, however, was departing in a few minutes, so I made a snap decision to change my plans. With a 1,400-yen ticket - half the price of regular admission for a solo passenger since I was joining other passengers on the boat - I was on my way.
As I boarded, our destination was already in sight. Ukabijima has an 800-meter circumference and is only about 800 meters away from the shore. It looked more like a small stretch of shore with no trees or buildings than it did an island. But, as the boat approached, the island grew larger than my initial impression.
As soon as the boat came to a stop, we got off and set foot on the sandy beach. While the western side of the island was covered with sand, the eastern side seemed to consist of pebbles and coral remains. I put my bags on the sandy shore then prepared to do some snorkeling. A member of the crew told me I couldn’t go beyond the buoys in the water.
When I dipped into the water, I noticed the current was fast. I had to constantly move my legs to avoid drifting away from the designated area. Luckily, the waters were shallow, so I didn’t need to worry too much. It was not until I put my face under the water that I noticed how many fish were surrounding me below the surface. Brightly colored fish of all shapes and sizes were constantly following me as if they were expecting to be fed.
(Photo by Shoji Kudaka/Stripes Okinawa)
At one point while swimming over the rocky rugged bottom, I spotted a school of blue damselfish. As I was trying to get as close to it as possible, something different came into my view. It appeared to be something black and long, possibly a cucumber or a moray eel, sticking its head from a chasm. It crossed my mind to get closer and take a photo and also identify what it was. But I decided not to and kept my distance from the creature. On that day, I was happy enough just swimming with the fish.
I was in the water for about 40 minutes. When I got back on the shore a boat was just arriving, bringing more people to the island. Once all the passengers got off, I boarded and made my way back to the main island.
Under the cloudy sky, the sunlight was not as strong as I expected it to be. But my face and neck were already feeling the burn and it finally felt like summer had arrived.
Chinen Marine Leisure Center
GPS Coordinates: 26.174462, 127.829622
Hours: From April through November, only the boat tour to Komaka Island is available, while the tour to Ukabi Island is scheduled between December and March. The first boat departs for Komaka Island at 9:15 a.m. while the last boat coming back from the island departs at 3:30 p.m.
*A boat ride to Komaka Island for a two-hour stay on the island costs 4,500 yen (approx. $27.79, adult) and 3,500 yen (between 3 years old and elementary school age), accordingly.
*A boat ride to Ukabi Island for one-hour stay on the island costs 3,500 (approx. $21.61, adult) and 2,500 yen (between 3 years old and elementary school age) for a round trip. Free for kids under 3 years old.
*Above fees are subject to change. For the most up-to-date info, please check with the center.
Hamabe no Chaya (Photo by Shoji Kudaka/Stripes Okinawa)
Croque-Monsieur (Photo by Shoji Kudaka/Stripes Okinawa)
(Photo by Shoji Kudaka/Stripes Okinawa)
When you travel to Nanjo City, there are many options for lunch. Hamabe no Chaya is a good place especially if you’re having trouble deciding non where to go.
The name means “teahouse on the beach.” Located along the southeast coast of Okinawa’s main island, this place offers exactly what its name suggests.
Going downstairs and opening the door of this wooden building on the side of a cliff makes it feel like being in a cozy hideaway.
Every stop at this ocean front eatery rewards me with an opportunity to look at the beautiful ocean out a large window, while enjoying a good meal.
The menu items include various toasts such as Croque-Monsieur (600 yen) and Walnut and Cinnamon Toast (600 yen), Basil Chilled Noodles (1,000 yen), Purple Sweet Potato Cheesecake (550 yen), while the drinks range from Iced Coffee with local ice cream (700 yen) to Hibiscus Tea (600 yen) and more.
My favorite combo is Pizza Toast (600 yen) and hot Drip Coffee (580 yen). Served up with four slices of Tomato on top of cheese, green pepper, and pizza sauce, the toast has a nice mixture of sour taste and melting cheese.
It has been more than 30 years since the teahouse/café opened there. But having the tasty toast and sipping the coffee with nice bitterness, while enjoying the beautiful ocean view, continues to refresh and amaze me.
Hamabe no Chaya
GPS Coordinates: 26.133550, 127.784689
Hours: 8 a.m. – 6 p.m.
Hamagaa Utaki (Photo by Shoji Kudaka/Stripes Okinawa)
Hamagaa Utaki (Photo by Shoji Kudaka/Stripes Okinawa)
Yahara Dukasa (Photo by Shoji Kudaka/Stripes Okinawa)
On our way back home, we stopped by a couple of locations on Chinen Peninsula. One of them was Yahara Dukasa. This is a piece of rock standing in the sea, about 20 to 30 meters away from the sandy shore. Legend has it that Amamikiyo, the goddess who created Okinawa, set her foot on the rock when she landed on Okinawa for the first time. According to Nanjo City, the goddess temporarily stayed at Hamagaa Utaki, a rocky sacred site nearby, after her landing. Although these two landmarks are small in scale if they are compared to Sefa Utaki, they have nonetheless a strong sacred atmosphere, just like the most famous sacred site in Okinawa. The serene and mysterious mood helped me cool down and relax after having a lot of fun on Ukabi Island and the stimulating dining experience at the café.
Yahara Dukasa
GPS Coordinates: 26.139480, 127.796772
Hamagaa Utaki
GPS Coordinates: 26.140293, 127.796388
Dried squid (Photo by Shoji Kudaka/Stripes Okinawa)
I also stopped by Ojima Island. I had been there just a week ago to see a dragon boat race. This time, though, I wanted to see squid drying on wire. It is a seasonal tradition that starts in late June and continues until October. I was impressed by the sight of the squid drying in the sun as it also made me feel that summer had arrived. I could have bought some on the spot and washed them down with a can of beer, but I decided not to because I had to drive. With plan on coming back with a designated driver next time, I hit the road and made my way home.
Ojimas’ squids dried by the sun
GPS Coordinates: 26.131796, 127.774180
